Herdade Rocim Amphora Event

Herdade Rocim Amphora Event was where winemakers and enthusiasts united.

Talhas from the Alentejo

I’ve come to truly appreciate what I’ve learned about amphorae, because they’re an important part of world history. The process began in the Old World and then migrated into Europe, primarily from the Romans. The following vessels are all language related and some examples of the diverse and fascinating history that has evolved. They’ve played an important role in the storage and transportation of food and drink throughout the world.

Old World

• Dolium are used for storing and transporting wine in ancient Israel. (Ancient Judea)
• Kvarner are large clay amphorae used for traditional winemaking. (Croatia)
• Kvevri are large clay amphorae used for wine fermentation and storage. (Armenia)
• Melian Pithamphora are large and used as grave markers and cult objects in the Archaic period. (Cyclades)
• Pithos are clay storage vessels used in storing oil, wine, and other commodities (Ancient Greece)
• Qvevri are known to be the most ancient amphorae (at this pint of time), and are used in traditional winemaking. (Georgia):
• Qvevri are also traditional amphorae used for wine fermentation. (Ukraine)
• Satsivi are large clay jars used in traditional Georgian wine production. (Also Georgia)

New World ~ European

• Smaller earthenware jars, known as Batea, are used for making and storing vinegar. Spain
• Dolia are large ceramic jars used in Italy for storing and aging wine. (Italy)
• Kupferstecher are copper vessels used for beer brewing in Germany. (Germany)
• Nevat are large earthenware jars used for wine fermentation in the Loire Valley. (France):
• Serra da Estrela are amphorae used for winemaking. (Serra da Estrela region of Portugal.)
• Talha are traditional amphorae and used for wine fermentation and storage. (Alentejo region of Portugal)
• Tinaja are large clay jars used for storing wine and olive oil. (Spain)

Talhas for all seasons and all reasons. Photo: Jo Diaz, all rights reserved

Saint Martin’s Day Introduction

In 2023, Herdade Rocim’s focus was all about “Amphorae Without Borders,” during a St. Martin’s Day event at their winery. The following amphora scholars below are all helping this ancient history to stay alive. My story at this St. Martin’s Day amphorae event has long inspired my story, and I doubt my passion will now ever go away now. I took Talha images at a St. Martin’s Day event in the Alentejo region of Portugal. The pots throughout the entire region of Alentejo are for form, function, and flair.

I met Paul James White at Adega Regional País Das Uvas. This is not a modern winery, it is actually a restaurant in Vila de Frades, Portugal. It was an old winery that’s been converted, but it still maintains its traditional architecture and atmosphere. My dinner with a group of wine professionals, who are left to right, author Paul White, António Honrado owner of the restaurant , and LM Archer fellow wine writer.. The setting was very intimate, the evening was extremely memorable with candlelight.

“Adega Regional País Das Uvas” is actually a restaurant in Vila de Frades, Portugal, not a winery or vineyard. ️ It’s an old winery that has been converted into a restaurant, but still maintains its traditional architecture and atmosphere.

Perspective, Dr. Paul James White

Paul White’s “Talha Tales” book was years in the making, as regards Portugal’s amphorae research and history development. He discusses it all in his book, which is well worth the read, as it’s all related to Portugal’s history with clay pots. In fact, the Talha name isn’t used outside of Alentejo, Portugal. It is its own appellation, therefore; it’s like calling a bubbly wine outside of Champagne a “Champagne.” Oh, don’t do that, if you don’t know, you’ll give  yourself away. Cava is a Spanish bubbly, with Italy having five appellations: Prosecco, Lambrusco, Franciacorta, Metodo Classico, and Asti Spumante.

My Own History of Amphorae Began

at Herdade Do Rocim

Herdade do Rocim on a St. Martin’s Day in Alentejo, Portugal

It was a celebration of Saint Martin’s Day, and Rocim was celebrating in serious style. There were people shoulder to shoulder, and getting through the tasting crown at one point had me just put my arms into the air sardine-style. I made my way to the staging area, not even dare to taste those amphorae wines. I would have surely spilled on myself or someone else. And, I’ve had enough tastings in my life that it was my time to let others (not in the business of wine) enjoy that part of the day.

Panel Members Preparing

Speakers at Herdade do Rocim, St. Martin’s Day presentation, by prominent Eastern European winemakers and knowledgeably media.

Tiago Macena (producer Tiago Macena Wines), Shota Lagazidze (producer Lagazidze Wine Cellars), Luis Ramos Lopes (host and press member, Revista de Vinhoshere). Continuing, Sarah Ahmed (Sara Ahmed, press member), and Hugo Mendes – Castelão IG Lisboa (Producer Volatil & Exotico)

And So It Began

Tiago Macena, from their Website.

Tiago Macena (Producer Tiago Macena Wines)

From the winery: “Meet the visionary mind behind wines that echo with heavenly poetry. Our winemaker is a true alchemist, he transforms grapes into masterpieces that tell cosmic stories through each wine. With an unshakable passion for the art of winemaking, Winemaker Tiago Macena unravels the hidden codes within nature and the constellations. “This creates a wine selection that captivates the senses. Each wine is a journey, an odyssey through the oenological cosmos, meticulously conducted by the hands of our oenologist.”

Lagazi Winery, with Shota Lagazidze

Shota Lagazidze (Producer Lagazi Wines)

Shota Lagazidze (Producer Lagazi Wines): “If you’ve happened to fall in love with Georgian wine and you would like to treat yourself to one of the truest expressions – you should definitely give Lagazidze Wine Cellars – Shota Lagazidze wines a try. Not for the faint of heart, both his Rkatisteli and Mtsvane see six months on skins and a whole year in qvevri.” This is winery information, Le Caveau website regarding Shota Lagazidze Mtsvane: “Shota established his cellar in his family home and started making wine in 2013.” Continuing,  “style is traditional, both his Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane see six months on skins and a whole year in qvevri.”

Luis Ramos Lopes (Host and Press Member)

Luis Ramos Lopes (Host and Press Member)

Luís Ramos Lopes is the founding director and editor of Revista de Vinhoshere, a 20 year wine publication. “He’s a Portuguese wine journalist and editor who has been very influential in the world of wine media. He was the founder and editorial director of Revista de Vinhos, one of Portugal’s leading wine publications, for over 28 years. More recently, Luís has been involved in a new project called Grandes Escolhas (Great Choices), which is focused on wine education and events. He’s definitely a respected figure in the Portuguese wine industry and has made a big impact on the way people think and write about wine in Portugal and beyond.”

Sarah Ahmed (Press Member)

Sarah Ahmed is a UK-based wine writer, educator, and judge who is known for her expertise on the wines of Portugal and Australia. She’s been a Portugal Regional Chair at the Decanter World Wine Awards since 2011, and she’s written extensively about Portuguese wines.

In her review of Paul Whites book called Talha Tales, she addressed her own thoughts like this, ” I welcome the “broad church” scene that is emerging. After all, the Portuguese are nothing if not consummate blenders. New wave blends of traditional and modern techniques are producing some of the country’s most exciting wines. I could not agree more with White’s remark that the talha wine renaissance “is playing into the transformation of Alentejo.”

She continues, “It finally has its own identity again, after the Aussie/Parker years,” when riper, oaky so-called international styles (and red wines) were de rigueur. The impact of talha goes well beyond the vessels themselves. Because of talha, producers in Alentejo and countrywide are questioning the use of oak and exploring other vessels for fermenting and maturation, whether made with clay, concrete, cement, or ceramic.”

Hugo Mendes (Producer Volatil & Exotico)

Hugo Mendes – Castelão IG Lisboa originally trained as a biomedical engineer, but in 2004 he worked his first wine harvest and decided to entirely change his career. He became a winemaker, and for 11 years worked in cellars and consulted all over Portugal. In 2016, however, tired of making wines to other people’s specifications, he decided to strike out on his own. With this project, Hugo Mendes intends to study and express the full potential of the Portuguese native castes. The producer and winemaker seek genuine wines with a soul, which unequivocally express the origin and interpretation on the face.

Talha images taken in the Alentejo region of Portugal with both form and function. Property of Jo Diaz, all rights reserved

Many Amphorae Event Lessons

I had the privilege of attending a World Amphora Day Celebration at Herdade do Rocim, during Saint. Martin’s Day in November 2023, . The above presentation happened with winemakers and media, who emphasized the style of wine that’s brought forth through the winemaking process in clay pots. Amphora history was discussed, which each experienced in amphorae processes. Not just the people above stated, but also when I first met Paul James White. He’s a PhD, with a heavy emphasis on amphorae, now from around the world. His curiosity got the best of him.

As the wine ferments within an amphora, it’s not met with wood, it’s met within an earthen vessel, topped by olive oil, as it ferments and when as it ages. It’s not wood centric rustic, it’s more round, supple, and inviting on my palate. (I’m just not big on enjoying wood. I can’t help it. Perhaps it’s my superpalate that exaggerates the flavors of the wood.

Bottom Line

I’m not the only advocate of these clay pots who believes the past should not be lost in time. They have at least 6,000 years of successful wine making. Have I always loved the flavor of cedar, vanilla, spice, toast, and caramel in wines? Sometimes, but not always. For my palate, toasting gets in the way of the fruit, but that is just my palate. I love the Talha vessels delivery of soft and supple. And, I thank all the hard work that Rocim went to, on behalf of furthering my understanding of wines with ancient histories.

For more information about Herdade do Rocim: The home page as a fabulous video, including stomping grapes!